It may be a season of dark flowers in the world of menswear,
but Van Noten edged his peers with a collection that thoroughly explored every
possible permutation of the idea. Prints were derived from eighteenth-century
rococo, scans of freshly cut blooms or Hawaiian gothic, and combined in
unlikely silhouettes and fabrications. There was a delicate dévoré shirt, for
instance, tucked into lustrous moiré trousers, then wrapped in a robe of purest
kitsch. And a damask coat wrapping surf shorts and something sheer and floral.
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